Flare.

Inspiration, Nikon 58mm f/1.2 NOCT, Teaching point

Lens flare is usually to be avoided.  It happens when you point your camera towards the sun, or any other bright source of light and get starbursts, circles, or blobs of light introduced into the frame.  Sometimes, these light artifacts are desired, for artistic effect.  More often than not, they interfere with a critical portion of the image and prove to be quite distracting.

Other times, when the bright light source is just outside the frame and the light rays are striking the front of the lens tangentially, you end up with a low-contrast and hazy photograph (for more information on lens flare, please read here).

Yet, despite what I’ve written above, I find that bright backlighting can often be dramatic, so I find myself frequently photographing things against the sun.  I do it taking my chances that flare won’t interfere with the image.

In the photo below, the undesirable effects of lens flare are found in abundance:

(please click on image below)

As you can see, the bottom right corner of the frame contains spurious green discs, an orange starburst, and red arcs of light that were not part of the original scene.  The rest of the image is washed out with less than normal contrast.

Is this photo ruined?  Many would say so, but I would disagree.  I find all of the “faults” in this specific example are not interfering with the subject and are, in fact, contributing to the overall emotional appeal of the image.  The stray spangles of light remind me of the brilliant sunlight on the particular day I took this photo and lend an almost magical quality to the portrait.  The image speaks to me of summer, and I am taken there when viewing it.

Often it is through such “mistakes” that our photos become more interesting.  Noise, blurriness, tilted horizons, etc., are often distractions but sometimes they can serve to enhance a photo.

We live in a digital age that allows us to experiment with little loss, so there is little reason not to experiment.

Strong diagonals.

Inspiration, Leica 28mm Summicron ASPH f/2, Leica 35mm Summarit f/2.5, Leica 75mm Summarit f/2.5, Leica 75mm Summilux (Canada 🇨🇦) f/1.4, Teaching point, Voigtländer 35mm f/1.2 Nokton, Zeiss ZM 21mm f/2.8 T* Biogon

If you examine my photos, you’ll notice a dominant diagonal line running through many of them.  I’ve sort of learned to make images this way automatically, after years of photographing.

Why is a strong diagonal important? 

I don’t know the academic answer but I know the simple one:  in many cases, photos look better with it than without it.

A strong diagonal connects a photo from the top to the bottom and, in doing so, serves to visually point (much like an arrow) the viewer’s eye from one end to the other and, at the same time, ties the image together.  It also serves to “fill” the frame.  Finally, it acts as a balance or scale where you can divide the remaining visual elements equally between the two halves on either side of the line.  These last two points are, in actuality, addressing and solving problems related to composition.

But enough talk –  let’s look at some images.

The 3 images below feature simple structures that form an easily identifiable strong diagonal element:

(please click on any of the images below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summilux @ f/1.4.

↑Leica M9 and Voigtländer Nokton 35mm @ f/1.2.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 28mm Summicron @ f/2.

In this next image the subject is the beach and the strong diagonal is its shoreline:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Zeiss ZM 21mm @ f/2.8.

In each of the above photos, I could have composed differently, but the result would be less pleasing to the eye.  How strong is the effect?

Well, take a look at this shot:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

I had originally taken this photo as a portrait with the subject placed a little off to the side (one of the “rules” of taking portraits is to not centre the person, but that’s another discussion).  However, the strong diagonal of the field line kept interfering with my original composition and crop, and the eye kept falling short of the corner of the frame – the look was simply inharmonious.  When I cropped the photo so that the white line was allowed to span the image from one corner to the other, the composition became more pleasing, even though I was now violating one of the rules of portraiture.

Such is the strength of the dominant diagonal that our brains are actually willing to give up reality in favour of a more pleasing composition .  Here’s an example:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica MP and Leica 35mm Summicron @ f/4.

We all know that a tower doesn’t jut out of the earth sideways like the CN Tower appears to be doing above, but the photo is made more pleasing to the eye because of it.  On a side note, the chosen composition also emphasizes the sheer height of this structure because it somewhat disorients us, and gives us a sense of what it must feel like to stand at the base of the tower.

Here is another example:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 35mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

Once again, the image elements (the buildings) have been tilted so that the window washer platform forms a strong diagonal.  The tilting here is also successful because of the sense of vertigo it adds to the image which, by the way, is named Vertigo.

Finally, here is what I would consider a very successful use of a diagonal:

(please click on the image below)

↑Nikon D3 and Nikon 24mm AF-D @ f/2.8.

In the image above, the diagonal is the barrier separating the (Niagara) Falls from the girl.  What’s more, this division has resulted in a harmonious composition in that the Falls and the face are equally prominent on either side, and the image is therefore “balanced”.  Finally, on an artistic note, the strands of the girl’s hair over her face mirror the linear strands of water behind her, which is immensely pleasing to the eye.  I cannot pretend to have planned it this way, but my choice of composition resulted in a happy accident.

I hope the above discussion on strong diagonals was helpful.

The merry-go-round.

Inspiration, Leica 50mm Summicron f/2, Teaching point

It’s challenging sometimes to photograph something you’ve photographed before and produce something with a fresh perspective.

I often look to change things up by photographing at different times of the day (or night), under different sorts of weather.  It’s mostly about the light and the way it paints everything it touches.  A simple park bench can be boring under flat light but can be absolutely poetic with the red-orange back-lighting of the setting sun behind it.

Sometimes I’ll change my angle or point of view.  There are actually many variables involved, and many opportunities to introduce change.

When I was shooting this Merry-Go-Round, I was doing it at the same time of day, in the same season, and using the same camera and lens I’ve shot previously.  So what to do?

I decided to play with the shutter speed to create a blur effect, shooting at 1/4 sec.  The aperture was set to f/16.  I panned a little bit to follow the action so that some of the elements in the image were recognizable and not just blurred blobs.

I don’t know if I succeeded in making these interesting, but I like the effect, and I enjoyed revisiting a familiar scene in a slightly different way.

(please click on any of the images below to view)

All three photos taken with the Leica M9 and Leica 50mm Summicron @ f/16.

The Leica M9… for sports?

Inspiration, Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2, Leica 75mm Summarit f/2.5, Sports, Teaching point

I wrote this little piece for my good friend Steve Huff over at SteveHuffPhoto.com, and he was kind enough to publish it.  The specific link to it is here.

For the non-photo geek, it’s somewhat unorthodox to use a fully manual camera like the M9 to try and capture action, especially in this world of auto-focus and auto-everything-else.  But, as I write below, I’m able to anticipate better with this camera and – what’s more – there is no auto-focus system on the planet that will allow me to track the moving eye of a player at f/2.5 (or wider) better than my own eye.  The Leica allows me to be in full control, which is what I want.

Anyway, the article is reproduced here for you:

The Leica M9… for Sports? by Peter | Prosophos

Hi Steve,

Sometimes, when I read the commentary on the various fora, I get the sense that many people view the Leica M series cameras as great for “static” scenes like portraits, landscapes, and bowls of fruit.

Yet, as you have demonstrated with your concert photography, Leicas are great tools for capturing dynamic moments, and I know of at least one person who shoots racecars with his M9!

Despite this, Leicas are not often linked to sports images, so I thought this would make an interesting “just for fun” posting for your fine website.

OK, so the “sports” I’m referring to involves kids, but this still qualifies as action, and it’s not typical of the usual photography most people associate with a Leica camera.

Would I recommend a Leica M as a sports camera?

No, not really. The various “pro” DSLR bodies in existence are weather-sealed, have great high ISO performance, lend themselves more naturally to shooting at telephoto distances, and can be machine-gunned for crazy high frame rates.

Yet, what would I choose to photograph sports (or anything else I shoot)?

Hands down, the M9.

My reasons?

That’s a long story, perhaps long enough for somebody else to write an article about it. For now, I’ll just say that an M camera allows me to shoot the way I want, and to anticipate the action better than any other kind of camera I’ve ever used.

Here are the images, and thanks for doing such a great job with this site!

Peter | Prosophos

(please click on any of the images below)


↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

↑Leica M9 and Konica Hexanon 60mm @ f/1.2.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

This last shot was taken with the Nikon D3S, but I’m including it here because I like it:

The Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2 – it’s got a Hex on me.

Inspiration, Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2, Teaching point

I’ve been looking, and looking for this lens.

I’m not gloating. I’m just happy. So very happy.

This is my dream lens….

I’ve searched, and searched for it, and was finally rewarded this week.  And it arrived today.  Oh, sweet joy.

Here is one of my first test shots.

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and the Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2, Special Edition.

Never heard of the Konica Hexanon 60/1.2?  It’s understandable, as there were only 800 of these ever made, in 1999.  Most of these are sitting in boxes, on collectors’ shelves.  Occasionally – actually, rarely – one of these is put up for sale.

If you want to read more about this special lens, you may do so here at Yanidel’s photo-blog – it was his artistry with the KH 60/1.2 that first made me aware of its existence (if you’ve never seen Yanidel’s site, do yourself a favour and have a look – his street photography with any lens is brilliant).

Toronto Beach – A Misty Morning.

Inspiration, Photo Shoot, Print, Zeiss ZM 21mm f/2.8 T* Biogon

This is a spiritual place for me.

I’ve photographed this spot many times and each time I get something different — a different mood painted with a different palette.

Always beautiful though.

Here are some sample shots taken on a recent foggy Saturday morning.

(please click on any photo to view a larger version)

Leica M9 and Zeiss 21/2.8