The Leitz (Leica) Tele-Elmar 135mm f/4.

Leica 135mm Tele-Elmar f/4 (1966), Sports, Teaching point

(Photo Source: L Camera LeicaWiki)

The Leitz (Leica) Tele-Elmar 135mm f/4 is a lens I’ve been seeking for a while.

When I moved away from DSLRs, I sometimes missed having a longish focal length for certain applications, like photographing sports (where shooting from a distance is often a reality).  Telephoto lenses are also surprisingly useful for landscape photography, and for portraiture too.

However, 135mm represents a long focal length for a Leica M camera, because accurate manual focusing in this range can be tricky unless both camera and lens are in perfect calibration.

Knowing this, I nonetheless set out to find the venerable “T-E 135”.

The Tele-Elmar 135mm f/4 was manufactured from 1965 to 1990 before it was updated, first cosmetically, and then to the current Apo-Telyt 135mm f/3.4 form in 1998.

Why was I looking for the older model?

The current Apo-Telyt 135 approaches a cost of US$3300 (as of July, 2011), whereas a T-E 135 can be found for as little as $500, and the performance difference is said to be negligible!  In other words, the older model represents one of the last true bargains of Leica optics.  The other things in favour of the T-E 135 are its small size and light weight  – these are qualities I value dearly.

Well, I finally secured an excellent condition Tele-Elmar 135mm f/4, manufactured near the beginning of its production cycle, in 1966.  This makes my copy a 45 yr old lens!

Fortunately, manual focusing with the T-E 135 has been easy and accurate.   The lens is a little soft at its widest aperture (f/4), but is quite sharp beyond that, with excellent contrast.  Given the apertures involved, this lens will most likely be used in outdoor settings where plenty of light is to be found.

Funny enough, my first use of the T-E 135 occurred at an indoor pool, as I couldn’t wait to try it!  The lack of light necessitated shooting at a relatively slow shutter speed of 1/125 sec and a high ISO of 2000.  Here is the end result:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 1966 Tele-Elmar 135mm f/4 @ f/5.6.

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Boy and breakfast.

Inspiration, Leica 50mm Summicron f/2, LFI Master Shot, Photo Shoot, Portrait, Print

There was something about the way the natural light filtered through the window and shone upon the figure of this boy, who was quietly busy buttering his toast.  The crispness of the white table cloths juxtaposed with the dark and textured bricks also caught my eye.  And the orange juice looks as vitally orange as it did the morning this photo was taken.  Normally, the mixture of natural and incandescent light sources creates a white balance nightmare, but thankfully not this time.

This image was chosen as a Leica Fotografie International (LFI) Master Shot.

(please click on the image below)

Leica M9 and Leica 50mm Summicron @ f/2.

Pat from Jackson-Triggs.

Leica 50mm Summicron f/2, Photo Shoot, Portrait

Pat is an amazing tour guide from the Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate winery, situated in Southern Ontario’s world-renown Niagara-on-the-Lake wine region.

The Jackson-Triggs winery is a state-of-the-art facility that is both functional and beautiful and when you take a tour there, you will be greeted by friendly and knowledgeable staff.  Every facet of the wine-making process will be explained, beginning outside in the vineyard, moving inside to the production facility, and ending with a (yummy) wine tasting at the Grand Reserve Tasting Bar.

If you want to experience a wonderfully humerous and educational guided tour of the winery, do yourself a favour and seek out Pat next time you find yourself at Niagara-on-the-Lake.

(please click on any of the images below)

Both images taken with the Leica M9 and 50mm Summicron @ f/2.

The haircut – a 3 stage act.

Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2, Nikon 58mm f/1.2 NOCT, Photo Shoot, Portrait

These were taken yesterday (Leica M9 and Konica Hexanon 60mm @ f/1.2):

(please click on any image to view)

Act 1: Scared.

Act 2: Trusting.

Act 3: Relieved.

And, just for fun, I’m including an additional shot below.  It was taken almost exactly one year ago (Nikon D3S and Nikkor-NOCT 58mm @ f/1.2):

(please click on the image below)

Flare.

Inspiration, Nikon 58mm f/1.2 NOCT, Teaching point

Lens flare is usually to be avoided.  It happens when you point your camera towards the sun, or any other bright source of light and get starbursts, circles, or blobs of light introduced into the frame.  Sometimes, these light artifacts are desired, for artistic effect.  More often than not, they interfere with a critical portion of the image and prove to be quite distracting.

Other times, when the bright light source is just outside the frame and the light rays are striking the front of the lens tangentially, you end up with a low-contrast and hazy photograph (for more information on lens flare, please read here).

Yet, despite what I’ve written above, I find that bright backlighting can often be dramatic, so I find myself frequently photographing things against the sun.  I do it taking my chances that flare won’t interfere with the image.

In the photo below, the undesirable effects of lens flare are found in abundance:

(please click on image below)

As you can see, the bottom right corner of the frame contains spurious green discs, an orange starburst, and red arcs of light that were not part of the original scene.  The rest of the image is washed out with less than normal contrast.

Is this photo ruined?  Many would say so, but I would disagree.  I find all of the “faults” in this specific example are not interfering with the subject and are, in fact, contributing to the overall emotional appeal of the image.  The stray spangles of light remind me of the brilliant sunlight on the particular day I took this photo and lend an almost magical quality to the portrait.  The image speaks to me of summer, and I am taken there when viewing it.

Often it is through such “mistakes” that our photos become more interesting.  Noise, blurriness, tilted horizons, etc., are often distractions but sometimes they can serve to enhance a photo.

We live in a digital age that allows us to experiment with little loss, so there is little reason not to experiment.

Strong diagonals.

Inspiration, Leica 28mm Summicron ASPH f/2, Leica 35mm Summarit f/2.5, Leica 75mm Summarit f/2.5, Leica 75mm Summilux (Canada 🇨🇦) f/1.4, Teaching point, Voigtländer 35mm f/1.2 Nokton, Zeiss ZM 21mm f/2.8 T* Biogon

If you examine my photos, you’ll notice a dominant diagonal line running through many of them.  I’ve sort of learned to make images this way automatically, after years of photographing.

Why is a strong diagonal important? 

I don’t know the academic answer but I know the simple one:  in many cases, photos look better with it than without it.

A strong diagonal connects a photo from the top to the bottom and, in doing so, serves to visually point (much like an arrow) the viewer’s eye from one end to the other and, at the same time, ties the image together.  It also serves to “fill” the frame.  Finally, it acts as a balance or scale where you can divide the remaining visual elements equally between the two halves on either side of the line.  These last two points are, in actuality, addressing and solving problems related to composition.

But enough talk –  let’s look at some images.

The 3 images below feature simple structures that form an easily identifiable strong diagonal element:

(please click on any of the images below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summilux @ f/1.4.

↑Leica M9 and Voigtländer Nokton 35mm @ f/1.2.

↑Leica M9 and Leica 28mm Summicron @ f/2.

In this next image the subject is the beach and the strong diagonal is its shoreline:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Zeiss ZM 21mm @ f/2.8.

In each of the above photos, I could have composed differently, but the result would be less pleasing to the eye.  How strong is the effect?

Well, take a look at this shot:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 75mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

I had originally taken this photo as a portrait with the subject placed a little off to the side (one of the “rules” of taking portraits is to not centre the person, but that’s another discussion).  However, the strong diagonal of the field line kept interfering with my original composition and crop, and the eye kept falling short of the corner of the frame – the look was simply inharmonious.  When I cropped the photo so that the white line was allowed to span the image from one corner to the other, the composition became more pleasing, even though I was now violating one of the rules of portraiture.

Such is the strength of the dominant diagonal that our brains are actually willing to give up reality in favour of a more pleasing composition .  Here’s an example:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica MP and Leica 35mm Summicron @ f/4.

We all know that a tower doesn’t jut out of the earth sideways like the CN Tower appears to be doing above, but the photo is made more pleasing to the eye because of it.  On a side note, the chosen composition also emphasizes the sheer height of this structure because it somewhat disorients us, and gives us a sense of what it must feel like to stand at the base of the tower.

Here is another example:

(please click on the image below)

↑Leica M9 and Leica 35mm Summarit @ f/2.5.

Once again, the image elements (the buildings) have been tilted so that the window washer platform forms a strong diagonal.  The tilting here is also successful because of the sense of vertigo it adds to the image which, by the way, is named Vertigo.

Finally, here is what I would consider a very successful use of a diagonal:

(please click on the image below)

↑Nikon D3 and Nikon 24mm AF-D @ f/2.8.

In the image above, the diagonal is the barrier separating the (Niagara) Falls from the girl.  What’s more, this division has resulted in a harmonious composition in that the Falls and the face are equally prominent on either side, and the image is therefore “balanced”.  Finally, on an artistic note, the strands of the girl’s hair over her face mirror the linear strands of water behind her, which is immensely pleasing to the eye.  I cannot pretend to have planned it this way, but my choice of composition resulted in a happy accident.

I hope the above discussion on strong diagonals was helpful.

The merry-go-round.

Inspiration, Leica 50mm Summicron f/2, Teaching point

It’s challenging sometimes to photograph something you’ve photographed before and produce something with a fresh perspective.

I often look to change things up by photographing at different times of the day (or night), under different sorts of weather.  It’s mostly about the light and the way it paints everything it touches.  A simple park bench can be boring under flat light but can be absolutely poetic with the red-orange back-lighting of the setting sun behind it.

Sometimes I’ll change my angle or point of view.  There are actually many variables involved, and many opportunities to introduce change.

When I was shooting this Merry-Go-Round, I was doing it at the same time of day, in the same season, and using the same camera and lens I’ve shot previously.  So what to do?

I decided to play with the shutter speed to create a blur effect, shooting at 1/4 sec.  The aperture was set to f/16.  I panned a little bit to follow the action so that some of the elements in the image were recognizable and not just blurred blobs.

I don’t know if I succeeded in making these interesting, but I like the effect, and I enjoyed revisiting a familiar scene in a slightly different way.

(please click on any of the images below to view)

All three photos taken with the Leica M9 and Leica 50mm Summicron @ f/16.